Sand for Pavers and Sandboxes: How Much, Which Type, How to Lay It

How much sand you need

Use the same volume formula as for gravel: length x width x depth in feet gives cubic feet, divide by 27 for cubic yards, add about 10 percent for waste. We found no sourced weight per cubic yard for sand, and it varies with moisture, so ask your supplier for their figure before ordering by the ton.

Worked example, paver bedding: a 12 ft x 12 ft patio is 144 sq ft. ICPI says to screed bedding sand to 1 to 1.5 in uncompacted. At 1 in (0.083 ft): 144 x 0.083 = 12 cu ft. At 1.5 in (0.125 ft): 144 x 0.125 = 18 cu ft. Add 10 percent and you need 13.2 to 19.8 cu ft, which is 0.49 to 0.73 cu yd. Order the higher figure if your base is not perfectly flat, because you cannot use sand to fill dips.

Worked example, a sandbox: a 4 ft x 4 ft box filled 6 in deep is 16 x 0.5 = 8 cu ft, or 0.3 cu yd. The 6 in depth is our example, not a published standard. A 50 lb bag of play sand is labeled at about one half cubic foot, so 8 cu ft needs 16 bags, or 18 with 10 percent added. Check the label on the bags you buy.

Joint sand quantity is small and depends on joint width and paver size, so buy a few bags beyond your estimate and return unopened ones if the supplier allows it.

Choosing the right type of sand

Bedding sand (under pavers): ICPI says it should meet the grading limits of ASTM C33, commonly called concrete sand, and warns against mason sand, which can be slow draining and unstable, and against stone dust or waste screenings, which have too much material passing the No. 200 sieve. Pine Hall Brick's technical bulletin adds that washed sand with under 3 percent fines is the usual specification, that angular sand builds better interlock than round particles, and that limestone screenings can cause efflorescence.

Joint sand: sources differ. ICPI says bedding sand may be used, or dry sand meeting ASTM C144 (mason sand). Oregon State Extension recommends fine, sifted sand, such as bagged play sand or sand sold as paver sand, because it compacts better and fills joints faster. Pine Hall notes that C33 can include grains too large for a 1/8 in joint, which means extra sweeping, but also warns that finer sand goes in easily and comes out easily, so it advises against finer joint sand on vehicle areas. For patios either approach works if the sand is dry. For driveways follow the more conservative advice.

Polymeric sand is a manufactured joint sand meant to resist washout and weeds. Pine Hall warns it can leave a haze if applied to wet pavers or if excess is not removed before activation, so follow the bag instructions exactly.

Play sand: one manufacturer data sheet describes play sand as washed, screened sand made for children's sandboxes and best kept damp. The American Academy of Pediatrics advises natural river or beach sand and says to avoid crushed limestone, marble, crushed quartz and obviously dusty products.

What to buy

Match the sand to the layer, not to a price. One pile does not do all jobs, although ICPI notes that bedding sand can double as joint sand.

• Bedding: washed concrete sand to ASTM C33 grading. Ask for a gradation sheet if buying in bulk.
• Joints: dry C33 or C144 sand, or polymeric sand if you want weed and washout resistance. Buy enough to sweep several passes.
• Sandbox: bags labeled play sand, or clean natural sand from a supplier who can say where it came from. Check the label for silica statements.
• A 2 x 4 or straight screed board, plus 1 in outside-diameter pipes or rails as depth guides (Oregon State).
• A broom with soft bristles for sweeping joints, a plate compactor with a protective pad (ICPI), and a tarp to keep bedding sand dry.
• A tight-fitting, non-absorbent cover for the sandbox, and a rake.

Preparing the site

Paver sand sits on top of a compacted aggregate base, and it can only do its job on a base that is flat and firm. ICPI allows about 3/8 in of variation over a 10 ft straightedge and says to fill any hollows with base stone and compact, never with sand. See our gravel guide for base depth and compaction. Install edge restraints before you place sand if they are the type that go in first.

For a sandbox, choose a shaded spot (the York Region public health fact sheet recommends shade) with drainage underneath. The American Academy of Pediatrics advises against inexpensive railroad ties for frames because they can splinter and may contain creosote, and recommends nontoxic landscaping timbers or non-wood containers. A box with a bottom layer of landscape fabric over stone helps water escape, although we found no official source requiring it.

Step by step: laying bedding and joint sand

• Always install edge restraints. Pavers without them spread and lose their interlock (ICPI). Install the type that goes in before bedding sand before you screed; plastic, steel or aluminium types can go in after the pavers are laid.
• 2. Lay rails or pipes about 1 in thick across the base, spread sand between them, and screed it flat with a straight board.
• 3. Pull the rails and fill the grooves with sand using a trowel, taking care not to step on screeded sand.
• 4. Place pavers tight against each other, working from a straight edge. Do not kneel on the sand bed more than needed.
• 5. Compact the pavers with a plate compactor fitted with a protective pad to set them in the sand.
• 6. Sweep dry sand across the surface so it fills the joints, then compact again. Repeat until the joints are full (ICPI).
• 7. Sweep off the excess. If using polymeric sand, remove every trace from the paver surface before wetting.
• 8. If you screeded sand and could not finish, loosen and re-screed it the next day rather than paving on a rained-on bed.

How deep and how to finish

Oregon State also recommends sealing the pavers with a sand-binding sealer once the joints are filled, which resists sand loss and weeds, and re-sealing periodically.

• Bedding sand: nominal 1 in thick (ICPI), screeded to 1 to 1.5 in before compaction.
• Final paver height: 1/8 to 1/4 in above the edges to allow for settlement (ICPI).
• Joints: typically 1/16 to 3/16 in wide, and they must be full of sand (ICPI).
• Snow-melt systems: ICPI notes bedding may be up to 2 in thick where tubing or wires must be covered.
• Sandbox depth: no official depth was found in the sources we read. A depth that lets children dig without hitting the base is common, so 6 to 12 in is a practical range, not a rule.

Common mistakes

• Using mason sand or stone dust for bedding, which drains poorly and settles unevenly (ICPI).
• Using wet sand. Oregon State says the sand and the pavers must be dry when you sweep joints.
• Filling base hollows with bedding sand, which will show up as dips later.
• Screeding sand and leaving it out overnight in rain, or walking on it.
• Pressure washing a finished patio. Oregon State says it dislodges joint sand, so sweep and refill afterward.
• Buying generic sand for a sandbox without checking the label, or topping it up with material from a building supply pile of unknown origin.
• Leaving a sandbox uncovered, so animals, debris and rain get in.

Cost and ordering tips

Bags are convenient for joints and sandboxes. For a patio bedding layer, bulk sand is usually cheaper per cubic foot and easier to screed than dozens of bags. We do not quote prices because they vary by region.

Ask the supplier: whether it is washed concrete sand to ASTM C33, how many fines it has, where it comes from, whether it is silica sand or crushed stone, and what a cubic yard weighs. Ask about delivery tipping and protection. Bulk sand left in rain gets heavy and is harder to screed, so cover the pile with a tarp.

Order the bedding sand and base stone at the same time if possible, and keep them apart so the sand does not become contaminated with stone fines.

Maintenance and later top-ups

Sweep and refill paver joints when you see gaps. Oregon State advises regular sweeping, especially in shaded damp areas where moss and efflorescence build up, and says to repeat sweeping and sealing after pressure washing. Pine Hall says joint sand loss is the most common cause of failure on vehicle pavements, so keep joints topped up on driveways.

For sandboxes, rake the sand regularly, remove debris and clumps, and keep it covered. The York Region fact sheet says to replace sand on a regular basis depending on use, and that chemical treatments are not effective at cleaning it. No source we read gave a fixed interval.

Sandbox safety and hygiene

The most practical guidance comes from the American Academy of Pediatrics and from York Region Public Health (Ontario, so not a US agency, but its advice matches the AAP's). Both say to cover the sandbox when it is not in use, to rake it for debris, to keep pets out because animals may use it as a litter box, and to let wet sand dry thoroughly before covering it, because wet sand can harbor bacteria. York also says to inspect it daily for animal feces and sharp objects, to keep eating and drinking out of the box, and to have children wash their hands afterward.

On the sand itself the AAP says tremolite concerns date to 1986 and that the Consumer Product Safety Commission has no standards or labeling requirements for sand source or content. It suggests lab testing if you are unsure, and says EPA regional asbestos coordinators can point to labs. York Region says sand should be labeled play sand and silica-free. These two positions differ, and a label is not a regulatory guarantee, so ask the supplier about the source and buy from one willing to answer.

Before you start: utilities, permits and safety

Before you dig anywhere, call 811 (the US call-before-you-dig line) a few business days ahead so utility lines are marked free of charge. Check your local rules for permits when you build a shed pad, driveway, wall or change the grade of your lot.

Wet sand lightly before you shovel it and wear a dust mask when you pour dry sand, because fine sand dust is a respiratory hazard. Lift bags with your legs, because 50 lb bags add up over a whole patio.

Common sand project sizes

Each row uses the depth shown and includes 10% extra for waste. Change any number in the sand calculator.

Frequently asked questions

Sources: ICPI Tech Spec 10: Application Guide for Interlocking Concrete Pavements, Oregon State Extension: 10-Step Guide to Installing Pavers, Pine Hall Brick Technical Bulletin 5: Bedding and Joint Sand, American Academy of Pediatrics HealthyChildren.org: Safety in the Sandbox, York Region Public Health: Outdoor Sandbox Safety fact sheet, Quikrete Sand and Gravel Products data sheet. Read 7 November 2026.